“My biggest fear is that there will be a big glass box of a W Hotel, and you’ll start seeing Starbucks and Victoria’s Secret and, you know, all the people who make every place look the same. It would be awful.”

~Anthony Bourdain on Havana

One of the biggest draws in terms of traveling to Havana is how “untouched” by America the country really is. There’s a strange dichotomy in how they relish in everything American (the cars, and especially pizza) and how they hold such a strong grasp of who they are, and what their country is all about. I had my list and I wasn’t about to deviate from it (or so I thought).

It’s highly evident in their cuisine they are traditional in so many ways, and at the same time actually leading the world in creative and new ways to deliver dishes to their guests.

We think of concepts like “farm to table”, well shit – that’s all Cubans have…

We think of concepts like “haute struggle food” and how wonderful this elevated Mac-N-Cheese is…

Quick question: What is Cuba’s largest export???

Most people would venture to say cigars, or rum, or even missiles (thanks Russia).

Answer: Lobster / Langoustines

Simple fact is, lobsters and langoustines (because of the Government) are completely banned from being sold in restaurants to the locals. It brings in so much money to the Cuban economy every year they can’t afford to let their own people enjoy the bounty of such a profitable commodity.

So I mentioned the farm to table concept. In Havana, I met the head chef at La Guarida, and (after the most memorable meal in Cuba) I asked him what a typical day in his life looked like. Since I was in the kitchen in numerous restaurants in America, and everything was delivered to my doorstep where I could pick and chose whatever I felt like taking; I wanted to know what it was like to survive as a renowned chef in Havana.

He starts his day promptly at 5am. He goes to the docks and meets up with the fisherman returning from sea and hand selects the best of the crop. He knows all of the fisherman personally and they make sure to reserve the finest of their catch for him. In fact, being his “source” is an honor in itself.

After he’s selected his seafood bounty for the day, he drives across Havana to the southeast end and goes to a small farmer’s market where the best farmers gather to sell their produce. He picks out the freshest and ripest of everything that he can get his hands on. All of the field greens, all of the root veggies, and all of the most vibrant flowers. He then heads into the city to a local carnicero (butcher shop) to buy whatever meats have come in that morning so that they’re at the peak of freshness. (The night I dined there he told me the Rabbit I was eating for my main course had passed away only an hour before I’d arrived) After the carniceria, he picks up his order from the bakery. He has his guest list for the evening so he knows exactly how many loaves he’ll need. (Fun fact: he told me that if he sees American names on the list he always gets an extra loaf per reservation) At this point he heads home and picks through his own personal garden for those little touches and the most miniscule details. He already has the evening menu planned out in his head.

He takes a little nap, and then he heads into his restaurant to start prepping the evening’s menu. He arrives around 3pm and immediately starts on his stocks and bases. He moves to roasting and sous vide. And then he finishes prepping / seasoning the seafood and meats for the evening’s menu.

He sits down with his staff, and they all enjoy a small glass of rum and go over the menu for the night and discuss what’s in the dishes and how they’re prepared. And then when the doors open (typically 7:45/8pm) they welcome the small crowd that’s gathered in the downstairs lobby.

It was my first official night in Havana and I was already enchanted with the cuisine, with the attitude, with the fortitude and resourcefulness in which these chefs faced life on a daily basis. If we took this same chef, and placed him in a 3 Star Michelin rated restaurant – they would thrive without hesitation. They may even earn a 4th star… But alas – what has made him great has also made it impossible for him to escape. There’s no way the Government (which allows Paladaras to operate to tourists as long as he pays the “higher” tax) would let such a creative and ingenious talent leave the island. *Note – this was, in every way, the best meal I’ve ever had even taking into consideration the meals I’ve had at restaurants like Guy Savoy and beyond*

My meal was perfectly prepared:

• Aperitivo – Rabbit Pate served with sweetbreads and crostini
• Primo – Octopus Carpaccio
• Secondo – Beef Tenderloins Medallions with Salsa Tripleta – Béarnaise, Bordelaise, and Beurre Blanc (usually reserved for fish, but paired beautifully with the meat)

My first day in Havana proved to be the quintessential dining experience of the entire island. My sincere gratitude to the owner / chef for preparing me the most fabulous meal of my life. And for also changing the course in which I would approach the rest of the restaurants in the city from that point forward.

He read my list, had high praises for a few different restaurants on my list. And also, had some sound advice on a few places that I should avoid altogether. *I went to the first one on the list in spite of what he said making sure to keep him honest, and he was dead on – overrated and just plain bougie without any of the culture.*

Here are the restaurants that I went to, that were NOT overrated – they were all exceptional in their own right, and I enjoyed each of them thoroughly:

• Castropol – Grilled Sausages, Pumpkin Bacon Cream, Mixed Grill w/ sides (Polenta, Insalata, Arroz, y Malanga)
• Casa De Luis – Malanga Fritta, Arroz, Vegetable Plate, Yucca fritta, and a Whole Grilled Fish
• Casa Miglis – Insalata Vegitale, Black & White (Two tenderloins in two different sauces), and it was here that I got to try Havana Club 30 Year Old
• Casa Abel – This was my last night in Havana, and for the life I me I can’t remember what I ate, but they pulled out all of the stops. Seven courses, copious amounts of Rum, fabulous cigars, and a general tranquility about the whole space. It was an perfect send off to a perfect trip.

Prior to leaving for Cuba, I wrote down a list of celebrity chef restaurants to try. ALL of them were phenomenal, but by far La Guardia was the best. Make reservations early (I made mine two weeks before I got there, and when I go back, I will eat there every other night if I can…)

Here are a few other helpful dining tips…

The Cubano sandwich that we’ve all come to love is really a Miami based sandwich. It’s an adaptation of the sandwich in Cuba known as El Cubano and trust me, don’t get it. It’s literally two pieces of white bread with a thin slice of ham and an even thinner slice of some weird white cheese that’s been sitting unrefrigerated for at least two days. It’s horrible. It reminded me of something Mrs. Bartch would make in lunch cafeteria when I was in middle school. It can’t even really be classified as a sandwich (unless you are doing a total THRU-HIKE, than and only then is it acceptable). Even SPAM on tortillas with mayo and yellow mustard pulled out of a stinky 11 day backpack is better (trust me, it made Day 3 thru-hiking Isle Royale seem like lunch at the Four Seasons).

There’s a little corner restaurant just off of the Malecon on the corner of Industria and Genios called Chango Habana. This little corner bistro was only a block from my apartment, and I ate there EVERY morning. Same thing – the Americano – $5.00 (CUC) – a total steal…

• 2 Eggs (your way)
• 2 Pancakes
• 3 Strips of Bacon
• 1 Whole Loaf of Bread
• 1/2 Stick of Butter
• Small Jar of Jam
• Café con Leche

This place was my morning ritual, and then in the afternoon while I was running around I would stop in for a Boilermaker (A bottle of Cristal, and a shot of Havana Club 7 Year Old).

My other “daily” food source was a tiny pizzeria a block from my apartment called “Pizzeria Italiana” on Crespo just south of Refugio. They fresh made 8″ pizzas with your choice of toppings (I routinely chose Jamon y queso) that came right out of the oven onto your plate for $0.50 each. I was in heaven. I only found out about it because there was a line around the block to get these pizzas, and once I had one I was hooked. Every day, after a boilermaker, I would swing over and grab two pizzas to go. One I would eat right then and there, and the other I’d bring back to nosh on after my siesta. If you find yourself in New Habana – definitely check it out. It saved me at least $20.00 a day on lunch.

Speaking of $20.00 lunches – I absolutely couldn’t help myself. So one afternoon I went to Hotel National de Cuba – thee poshest place in Habana, and decided to have lunch and a few cocktails. It is a magnificent place, full on grandeur from top to bottom. I was ushered into the courtyard overlooking the ocean, and from there had a wonderful lunch and cocktails. It was more opulent than I was going for, but I thought “when’s the next time I’ll be in Cuba?”

Some places to try and tell me about (because I didn’t get a chance to visit them) would be: TienTan (in Barrio Chino) I heard they have amazing sushi. Nazdarovie, a highly rated Russian restaurant. Castas Y Tal – highly rated Paladara tucked deep inside New Habana.

My last piece of advice on dining in Habana would be to be adventurous. If you’re walking down a little street in a dingy barrio and you smell something that makes your eyes light up – go try it. The street food was surprisingly good – and ALWAYS fresh.

Until next time…

Cheers! ~CK