After the Feldtmann Loop, we crossed the island from south to north, with overnights at Lake Desor South and Hatchet Lake, and enjoyed some primo campsites on the north shore: Todd Harbor and McCargoe Cove.

Day 5, Siskiwit Bay to Lake Desor South (10 miles)

The morning started out clear and warm, with a picturesque section of trail right on the beach. In-between the two beach sections, the trail crosses the outlet of the Big Siskiwit River where it empties into Lake Superior. We’d explored that section of beach the day before, but it was cool to see it at a different tide level and with fresh moose tracks everywhere.

From CK’s journal: “Once past the beaches, we turned inland and headed up the Island Mine Trail to the Greenstone Ridge. The ridge was completely wooded so there were no good views (Jaime gave the ridge 1 star).”

Ahem–in my defense, I was looking at the topo map the night before and was excited about spending the day mostly walking up on the ridgeline. Of course I anticipated great views! haha

“But we were the first ones to get to camp so we had the pick of the sites to choose from. We got a great private site and set up camp. Another camper popped in just to check out our site (to see what he was missing). Nice guy, we nicknamed him Scoutmaster Mike.

“We got our first cellphone signal so I texted Mom and Will to see how the doggos were doing, and to check the weather–looks like it’s going to be pretty rainy!

“The sunset was absolutely stunning, I’m still amazed at how clear and pristine the lakes are here.”

Day 6, Lake Desor South to Hatchet Lake (7.8 miles)

From CK’s journal: “Well the weather channel was dead on, we woke up to massive rains and now I know why it’s called Thunder Bay. The noise from the clouds was awesome. When the rain let up we quickly packed up and headed out on the ridge trail to go to Hatchet Lake. The woods were stunning, white pines or birch lined with ferns as tall as me. The rain started pounding our part of the island and a fog took over the trail. It reminded me of almost every rainy scene from a Vietnam movie, beautiful but eerie at the same time.”

“We stopped for a short break at a lookout tower and had lunch. We were soaked and cold from not moving. The mist and wind made it even more daunting.”

“We set out for Hatchet and ran into Scoutmaster Mike and his crew up on a ridge, they too were headed to Hatchet Lake to decide next steps.

“Once we arrived it was clear we should stay. We were both wet, cold, tired and hungry. The hot meal was a welcome treat.”

Day 7, Hatchet Lake to Todd Harbor (3.8 miles)

“Dry socks, wet shoes. Gorgeous sunrise (picture perfect) headed out early to get to Todd Harbor. Everyone says it’s one of the best spots on the island (it did not disappoint). Since it was less than 4 miles we left at 9 a.m. and got into Todd Harbor before 11.

“The one and only coveted shelter was ours!

“We unpacked and ate brunch. Jaime went sunbathing while I sat down and wrote. After a bit I rain down and jumped in the very cold waters of Lake Superior, crystal clear waters and rocky beach.

“Some fisherman took off in the noon sun and lit out for the lake. Sitting on the beach, enjoying the sun, make me full-on think of Nana. I wish she were still here…

“As the sun began to set, we gathered wood for a fire. I’m relishing in the fact that I’m completely disconnected–no signal at all. Perhaps a full recharge of mind and spirit? One of my favorite moments was discussing plans for our next night in a hotel…

Day 8, Todd Harbor to McCargoe Cove (6.2 miles)

“Sunset and sunrise at Todd did not disappoint–absolutely stunning. We packed up and headed out for McCargoe.

“The trail was pretty rocky and Jaime was in heaven. I struggled with the rocks but she ran em like a mountain goat.

“By the beaver pond we came across a big cow and her calf. We watched them for a bit and then pressed on. Ran across a kilt wearing hiker named Al, and later we met a kid named AJ who borrowed the Jetboil before heading out for another 8 miles.

“We settled into a shelter and made lunch before taking a nap. Nap was cut short when a 32′ Trojan docked and 3 adults with 6 kids jumped off the use the latrine. Captain said it only took 3 hours from Hancock–hmmm.

“Later on, a sailboat docked (what a life).

“We took a walk and then settled in for the night.”

McCargoe Cove was lovely and sheltered, a naturally protected inlet for boaters to anchor and a popular wading spot for moose. The island’s history is fascinating, and that goes doubly for this particular place:

“At the midpoint of the island is McCargoe Cove, which is a fiord-like, 3.2 km (2 mi) long inlet that follows a large fracture zone, trending N 30· E to a campground site located along an ancient Native American portage route and near another mine, the Minong Mine. Native Americans left hundreds of ancient pits as relics of mining from 6500 to about 5400 yrs BP. In 1874 three companies were formed in Detroit to exploit the potential here. They built a dock and a warehouse and started to build a railroad. Some large masses of copper were successfully mined, and the community here grew for several years in spite of difficult winter conditions. But mining did not last beyond 1885 (Rakestraw 1965).” –Taken from an awesome website that you should check out: Isle Royale: Keweenaw Rift Geology, log of field trip from the Institute of Lake Superior Geology, Michigan Tech.

The inlet points north, with wooded hills on both sides, meaning that we didn’t get much of a sunset view that night. Very serene spot though.