Hike along the rugged coastline of Lake Superior in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, with jawdropping views of sandstone rock formations around every corner

September is the perfect time for a trip to Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, and you can’t pick a wrong section of its 42-mile long shoreline, dotted with 14 backcountry campsites. Kayakers can also explore its hidden sea caves and get views of rocky arches, spires, turrets, and other geologic features totally different from what you see from up on the cliffs.

Inland there are even more options for trails, almost 100 miles in total, with beautiful wild woods, lakes, waterfalls, and opportunities for paddling, fishing–or if you have thick skin and the right gear, ice climbing, snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, or ice fishing.

I’ve got beautiful forests and lakes in abundance closer to home, so I stuck to the coast and did a figure eight from the parking lot at the end of Chapel Road, where I left my truck. Well, not exactly a figure eight, more like two out-and-back jaunts, but you get the picture.

I went east first, headed toward my first night’s site at The Coves. I had printed out this map of the backcountry campsites and trails, which was all I needed for navigation. The trails are well-maintained and get a lot of use during the summer and fall, and who needs a compass when you can just listen for the crashing waves of the lake if you need to find north.

The primitive backcountry backsites all have multiple flat(-ish) tent spots that need to be reserved in advance (and set up your tent or hammock within 15 feet of your numbered site marker to avoid disturbing plantlife as much as possible), as well as bear boxes and sometimes community fire rings. For the official info on camping, check out Backcountry Camping – Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore (U.S. National Park Service) (nps.gov).

After my first loop, where I traveled east up the beach as far as Beaver Creek and then did the short loop inland and back down the shoreline trail retracing my steps to the Chapel Road parking lot, I switched out some gear at the car and headed west toward Mosquito River.

On this second short section, I hiked only as far as Miners Castle. It’s fairly easy to do a 42-mile end-to-end hike of the lakeshore trail, either by dropping a car off at one end and driving to the other to start, if you’re hiking in a group with more than one vehicle; or else by using a local shuttle. Note that there’s no cell service in the park (in fact, I had almost no cell service throughout the entire U.P. with Verizon), so don’t miss your shuttle!

I almost always backpack alone, so I did two out-and-back segments on this trip to keep it simple.

While the east segment of my trip stayed high up on the cliffs with epic views at every turn, and campsites nestled back in the woods, the second half took me right down to the beach. (Careful of the tides!) You’ll still want trail running shoes with aggressive tread, since the shore in some sections is rocky and slick.

Every step of the trip was breathtaking, and I wished I had taken a couple more days and just done an end-to-end hike of the entire trail. Next time!

Instead, I drove to Grand Marais on the last day and pulled over to catch a few final scenic bits, including the Log Slide and the Grand Sable Lake overlook.

I had gorgeous weather throughout, crisp autumn days with bright blue skies, and just late enough in the season so that the bugs were gone. In general, black flies and mosquitos can be pesky for most of the hikeable seasons in the upper midwest, so I brought a couple Natrapel wipes just in case.

Pictured Rocks is bookended by two very cute, very tiny beach towns–Munising on the west end, Grand Marais to the east. Good for getting gas and postcards, and each has a Visitors’ Center with restrooms, exhibits, and a gift shop. They have very limited hours though, so gather all your info before you go (also in case you don’t have cell service when you’re actually there).

In Grand Marais, stop for a classic malt and a pastrami at the West Bay Diner, a restored 1949 Paramount Dining Car. Rad spot, fabulous service, and solid diner food.

Michigan’s Upper Peninsula is full of stunning scenery. A trip to Pictured Rocks, whether for a day or a month, has gotta be the jewel in the crown.